Previous Page  30 / 100 Next Page
Information
Show Menu
Previous Page 30 / 100 Next Page
Page Background

February 2016

30

W

hether it is a wire dipole,

a doublet or a beam

antenna you are using,

at its core will be an arrangement

to connect the feeder cable to the

antenna. This month’s Antennas is

a general overview of the dipole

centre in terms of examples of

commercially available types and

some homebrew designs.

Dipole centres revisited

A dipole centre’s main purpose is to provide a

reliable connection between the antenna and

the feeder cable from the transceiver/ATU.

However, depending upon the application,

the dipole centre should:

• be lightweight but of a suitably robust

construction

• physically protect the connection between

the feeder and antenna

• be made of a material able to withstand

many years of use outside in various

weather conditions

Then for beam antennas:

• provide a means to fix the driven element

to beam’s central support (boom).

Wire antennas

The arrangement used to connect the feeder

cable to each leg of a wire antenna is often

suspended within the antenna’s span (usually

centrally) and necessitates a physically

strong but lightweight design. Commercially,

there are various designs available and a

typical dog-bone type dipole centre that was

acquired at a radio rally is illustrated in

Photo

1

. This type of dipole centre can be obtained

from various suppliers and there are several

variations available.

Essentially, the dog-bone dipole centre has

a hole at each end through which each wire

leg of the dipole is firmly attached, usually

by tying the wire. A short length of the wire

is left protruding so that a ring terminal can

be soldered to the wire’s end after removal of

the insulation.

The feeder cable, usually a ladder line,

similarly has ring terminals soldered to each

conductor. These are paired up with the

wire leg ring terminals to make the electrical

connection and held in place using nuts

and bolts passed through the dipole centre’s

casing and the terminals. The feeder cable is

held in place by attaching it to the dog-bone

dipole centre using nylon twine, plastic cable

ties or similar.

This arrangement allows the antenna’s

span to be supported at each end using

insulators with the feeder cable hanging

vertically downwards from where it is

connected to the antenna’s span.

Often it is not possible to physically fit a

dipole antenna into the space available as a

straight span, however the space available

may allow the antenna to be installed as an

inverted V configuration

[1]

. The third hole

on the dog-bone dipole centre allows for this

configuration to be installed by using the

third hole to attach the antenna’s centre to

the top of a mast. If a metal mast is used,

a good practice is to attach a short length

of rigid plastic tube to the top of the mast to

act as an insulator and attach the antenna’s

centre to this using a length of nylon twine.

A dipole centre made from a length of

3mm thick uPVC (unplasticised polyvinyl

chloride) is shown in

Photo 2

. This design

has three holes drilled along the upper

section of the dipole centre either side of the

middle as shown. Each wire leg of the dipole

is then held in place by lacing it through the

holes as shown.

Two rows of three holes are then drilled

into the lower section of the dipole centre to

hold the feeder cable in place using cable

ties passed through the holes and feeder

cable (300 ohm ladder line in this case)

in

a

figure of eight

configuration

and tightened.

Two more larger diameter holes are drilled

symmetrically either side of the feeder cable

to allow the antenna to be installed as an

inverted V if necessary.

A short length of heatshrink sleeving

is passed over each dipole leg and the

leg soldered to one of the feeder cable’s

conductors. After soldering, the joint is

protected by wrapping PTFE plumbers’ tape

around it before the heatshrink is slid over

the joint and shrunk using a heat gun to help

weatherproof the joint.

Purely to make the design look neater, the

dipole centre can be finished off by cutting it

into a trapezium type shape before the cables

and feeder are added.

This design allows the antenna’s span

to be suspended horizontally as a straight

antenna or an inverted V with the feeder

cable hanging downwards.

uPVC was chosen for the dipole centre

because this material is designed for use

outside in the wet, is fairly rugged and is able

to generally withstand sunlight without too

much degradation.

Beam antennas

The dipole centre used for a beam antenna,

eg a Yagi, often supports the weight of the

beam’s driven element and this can be a

significant load depending on the band

in use, eg a 6m beam’s dipole has each

leg about 1.5m long, which represents a

significant torque load on the dipole centre.

Therefore, this form of dipole centre is made

more robustly compared to that for a wire

antenna.

Commercially, there are various designs

available and a typical dipole centre is

illustrated in

Photo 3

. In a similar manner

to the dog-bone dipole centre, this type of

dipole centre can be obtained from various

suppliers and there are several variations

available.

The underside of the dipole centre is often

shaped to enable a sturdy fit to be made with

the beam’s central boom and dipole centre

variants include both rounded and square

sections for this reason. The upper section

of the dipole centre usually has two brass

terminal pillars allowing the feeder cable

to be connected. The terminal pillars are

usually connected to the fixings used to hold

the driven element in place, as illustrated in

Photo 4

.

To weatherproof the feeder cable/antenna

connection, this type of dipole centre has a

snap-on lid that has an access hole for the

feeder cable.

A dipole centre can be made up using an

ABS box and aluminium tubing, as shown

in

Photo 5

. Two short lengths of aluminium

tube are used to support the dipole’s legs,

which are made from flush fitting aluminium

tube of a smaller diameter. Each short length

of tube has a lateral segment removed by first

sawing for a short distance lengthwise and

then sawing across the tube, leaving a half-

round section. The segment removed needs

to be cut to leave a gap of about 10mm in

between the two half-round sections when

placed on the ABS box isolating the dipole’s

legs, as shown in

Photo 6

.

Each short length of tube is temporarily

clamped in position to the ABS box, then

holes are drilled through the box and half-

round sections to allow suitable bolts to be

passed through and held in place using nuts

and washers as shown in Photo 6 (slightly

long bolts are used, see later). Sealant should

Antennas

Regulars